What do you do when you end up in one of the biggest cities on the planet with no plan? You hope for the best. And so did I when I got off the plane at Istanbul International Airport. I did not mean to be there and I did not mean to fall in love with Istanbul, but this is where my conflicting romance began.
The Nightmare
At the end of June 2025 I was supposed to fly to Dubai via Romania. As the control freak I am, I have meticulously planned every second of my trip. One hotel booked close to the airport for the first night and then a hotel booked in Barsha Heights for the rest of the trip. A long list of beaches, shopping malls and fancy landmarks. All was prepared, including my backpack, full of clothes I bought especially for this trip.
I was so excited, until the night before the start of my trip, when my excitement turned into anxiety. My flight from Romania to Dubai was cancelled.
I never had a flight cancelled before. I had no idea what to do but I knew one thing for sure – I was going to travel.
The Opportunity
I arrived at Luton Airport far too early for my flight to Romania, so I took advantage of the extra time I had. I bought a salad from Pret and I even managed to find a seat close to the window! Riding on the wave of luck, I opened Google Flights and started searching for the cheapest flights out of Bucharest.
And there it was – Istanbul via Belgrade! Two new countries and two new cities under my belt for just £83? Sign me up!
The First impressions
My first impressions of Türkiye were from the sky. It was a bright sunny day and I was stunned by how beautiful the view out of my plane window was! The sea was dark blue and we were flying so low I could clearly distinguish the buildings and the landscapes.
My flight was delayed, so I couldn’t wait to get out of the plane and get to central Istanbul. I remember the first mosque I saw as I was heading over to the Metro station near the airport. It was a piece of art that made me feel something I have never experienced before. An inner conflict that led me to realising that…
“The Blood has memory”
As a Bulgarian, I know that my country was part of the Ottoman Empire for 5 centuries. We did keep our Christian faith, our language and traditions, but this came at the high cost of blood. A lot of it.
When in high school, I specialised in History and I have always enjoyed Bulgarian classical poetry and literature. The 5 centuries we spent under Ottoman rule have left their heavy mark in Bulgarian folklore and collective memory. I spent years reading about young girls choosing death over becoming Muslims and young boys being taken from their families by force to staff the elite regiment of the janissary in the Turkish Army. I have studied about the ways Bulgarians bravely fought to reinstate my country back on the map of Europe.
And here I was – in the pearl in the crown of the old Ottoman Empire – Istanbul. I was feeling weird and slightly uncomfortable.
The Instant Connection
I felt, however, an instant connection. Suddenly I felt home, although I have never been there before. There were people everywhere, everything was chaotic, I was feeling like I was just a needle in a haystack. This city felt bigger than any other place I have been to. And, in fact, it was.
I remember getting on the bus that was supposed to take me to central Istanbul and very early on realising I made a mistake. The streets were extremely narrow, moped riders were coming from everywhere and it felt like ages being stuck in traffic.
The streets were buzzing. People walking, talking, running, selling, buying. Colours were bright and vibrant. The city was loud and it felt somehow intense. I couldn’t stay on the bus any longer – I needed to go out and experience Istanbul first hand.
I got off the bus and joined the hundreds of people on the streets. At times I was struggling to get through. Everyone was in a rush. And then…
The Stuffed Peppers…
Cough my eyes. I was walking fast, heading to Taksim Square, but I had to take a few steps back. This is how I accidentally found Damak Restaurant. I ordered stuffed peppers, bulgur and a salad. The food came straight away and it felt like home-made. The staff was not just friendly – they were treating me as if we knew each other for years. This is when I started to realise I was feeling butterflies in my stomach, and, I swear, it was not only because they were serving my favourite type of bulgur.
Damak didn’t feel like a “touristy” place and I have seen many locals inside, so I consider them a hidden gem. Also, my dinner cost me less than £8, which was quite shocking considering the amount of food I ate.
The Landmarks
Two days before arriving in Istanbul, I didn’t even know I was going to end up there. I stayed up late on my first night in Bucharest and quickly marked on Google Maps what I thought were the most important places to see in Istanbul. But this city goes way beyond the landmarks.
Everyone can tell you that you should see Galata Tower and Hagia Sophia, and they will be right. But first, let’s take a stroll down İstiklal Street. It was packed with people! However, it felt safe and I would see police officers every 5 minutes. Be careful, though, as the old-school tram passes right through the middle of İstiklal and you will have to quickly move to the side. I was surprised to see children handing off the back of the tram.
Speaking of children, I have seen many of them selling flowers and water or doing odd jobs here and there. I have no idea if this is legal but for the kids I saw, it seemed as if it was normal.
On İstiklal, expect to find the poshest-looking Baklava stores you will ever see! Also, the cheeky ice cream sellers you watch on TikTok, who make a spectacle out of something that is usually so mundane. Everything on this street feels grand.
İstiklal will leave you energised and curious to find more and more about Istanbul.
The Cats
Yes, it is true – kitties are everywhere. They are well-looked after and they seem to love the attention. Cat food is left almost at every corner, so they never go hungry. For someone like me, who loves cats, this is a great addition to the busy streets.
The human touch
One thing will always stay with me from my first visit to Istanbul – how welcoming everyone was. People would genuinely ask you about your name, where you are coming from, even how old you are. Everyone seemed so warm and friendly.
I went to buy some souvenirs and I ended up having a chat with the shopkeeper – it turned out that we were the same age!
I was taking a video of the Galata Tower and a local boy came to ask me if I was on YouTube and then “challenged” me to have tea with him.
I don’t speak Turkish, but between my English and my Bulgarian, I managed to get on quite well. Not everyone speaks English, but everyone makes the effort to understand and accommodate you – and this, my friends, is priceless.
The tea
Tea is king in Türkiye! People talk about Turkish coffee, but tea is what locals consume after every meal. I must admit that I developed an addiction to Turkish tea. I even smuggled a pack of 100 tea bags across the border. And I will do it again!
Even writing this in my home in London, I do it with a cup of Altunbas tea I got from my local Turkish store.
The bridge
Just as the sun was going down, I found myself crossing the Galata Bridge. Right place – right time! If you have even one evening in this magical city, go to the Galata Bridge and watch the sunset next to the dozens of fishermen.
You can go down on one of the platforms under the Bridge and take advantage of the photo opportunities. While I was there, I witnessed a wedding photoshoot and multiple selfie sessions. Even if you are not into photography, you can stand there and watch the yachts and boats go by.
The tram
I took the modern-day tram to my hotel and it was absolutely packed. At one point, though, I heard a guitar. There was this musician playing the guitar and singing on the tram as if he was on a stage in Wembley Stadium. Everyone around acted as if this is just the most normal thing. He was good and added even more magic to my night.
It was getting quite late, but the shops were still open and the streets were full of people – still walking, talking and shopping.
The smokers rooms
Somehow, just a day before arriving in Istanbul, I managed to book a 5-star hotel for only £52. I have never stayed in a 5-star hotel before!
This, however, came with a surprise. I went up to my room and it had a heavy smell of cigarettes. It was a “smokers” room. It was a concept for me I found very foreign. I even found an ashtray on the coffee table. This was not something I could cope with. The smell was so strong, I was sure it was going to get stuck into my hair and clothes.
I had to move rooms but once this was done, I was in for a comfy bed and a nice clean shower. I remember hearing the prayer from the local mosque while I was on the phone with my mom, and thinking: “Oh, yeah, I am in Türkiye” – it was feeling like a dream. It was as if I had teleported myself in an adventure movie taking place in a land far-far away from everything I knew.
Free advice: If you are travelling to Istanbul in the summer, take this advice from me – book a room that comes with a pool. My morning splash was priceless!
The Big Three
On my second day in Istanbul, I was already feeling like a local. I knew where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see.
I started with Kapalı Çarşı. I have never seen so much variety of tea and Turkish delight in my life. And you could try it all! Shopkeepers would often approach you asking if you would like to try samples. If they are not speaking with shoppers, you will see them having tea. Everyone is having tea, all the time!
I have seen the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, but let me tell you about the magical place between them – there is this small garden with palms and a fountain that is just perfect for taking photos! You have the two great mosques on each side and this beautiful green space in the middle. It’s perfect for a break with its benches and shady spots.
Topkapı Sarayı is accessible only after airport-style security and I think it’s forbidden to bring drones inside. The queue for tickets can be very long, so arriving early is the way. I couldn’t see the palace built by Mehmed II this time, but I sure will very soon.
Another secret place is the picturesque park just behind the palace – Gülhane Park Masjid. If you go through it, on the other side you will find what I think to be the best place for photos in the whole of Istanbul – Cankurtaran. From there you can see the old town, Galata Tower, the Bosphorus Bridge and the Asian side.
The -9th Floor
Speaking of the Asian side, what amazed me was that I was able to get from Europe to Asia in only 5 minutes. All I had to do was to get the Metro that was departing from floor – 9. I have never been 9 floors below the ground before, but I can tell you – still had coverage.
I was surprised to find the Asian side of Istanbul having a completely different vibe. While The European side was this big city with skyscrapers and buzzing streets, the Asian side was way more laid-back. I have mostly seen locals. The streets were still narrow, but not busy at all. I had a feeling that I was in a small sea-side town. Completely the opposite of what I was experiencing literally 5 minutes earlier.
Conclusion
By the end of my 24 hours in Istanbul, I realised that
history is there and it always will be, but if Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman Empire for 482 years, I most probably have ancestors who were Turks. While we can’t change the past, we could embrace it for the beauty and cultural richness it gives us nowadays. It’s always nice to say “komşu”.
Istanbul is magnificent – busy, noisy, city of contrasts. It’s complicated, yet welcoming. It’s huge, yet beauty awaits at every corner. I now understand why Mehmed II was so obsessed with this place (although I am sure he had his own reasons). And this is how I fell in love with a City! So much so that I am going back there very soon.
KEY HUBS
